We’ve all been there: You’re perusing the wares at a local gun shop on the way back from “picking up some milk” when a beautiful rifle catches your eye.

“Is it a fair price? Will it shoot? Is it a dud, or a diamond in the rough? And is it possible to intercept and destroy this month’s credit card statement?”

You’re on your own for that last question, but I can help with the first three.

How to Not Go to Jail
First things first.

You’ve probably purchased a firearm from a licensed seller (like a gun shop or sporting goods store), so I won’t cover that here. But searching in the used market opens up the possibility of purchasing a firearm from a private seller.

The legality of this option depends on your state. If you live in a state that does not require private sales to go through a licensed dealer, you can meet the seller and purchase the firearm without any additional paperwork. If not, the process will look nearly identical to purchasing from a licensed dealer (bring your ID, fill out a form, don’t be a criminal). You can find a detailed list here for private gun sale legalities in your state.

How to Spot a Dud
I’m going to focus on bolt-action rifles and pump-action shotguns, but many of these principles can be applied to semi-automatic firearms and handguns as well.

To help me with this, I reached out to Johnny Dury at Dury’s Guns. Dury’s was established in 1959 in San Antonio, Texas, and today they’re one of the nation’s largest used gun sellers.

On bolt-action rifles, Dury told me that the last 2 inches of the barrel should be your biggest concern. Hunters will often shoot a rifle only once or twice a season, which burns the oil from the barrel and leaves it exposed to the elements. If the gun isn’t cleaned and oiled before going back into the safe, those final two inches can become rusted and pitted.

To diagnose this problem, start by looking carefully at the overall condition of the gun.

“Generally, if the outside of the gun is super clean, the inside of the bore is going to be good,” Dury said.

You can also purchase a bore light or a bore scope and learn how to look for pitting. Just like when purchasing a used car, a trusted gunsmith or knowledgeable friend can be invaluable with this process. If you’ve never peered down the barrel of a gun to look for pitting, it’s can be tough to identify.

Dury also encouraged prospective buyers to check for nicks in the crown or end of the barrel, which can significantly affect accuracy.

Finally, on a rifle with a wooden stock, Dury said buyers should make sure the wood hasn’t warped. If the barrel touches the stock on one side of the barrel channel, take a pass.

Pump action shotguns are easier to evaluate. As long as the action cycles smoothly, a rusty chamber is the only major area of concern. A rusty chamber will keep the shell from ejecting during cycling and leave you frustrated in the duck blind.

To check for this problem, simply remove the barrel and check the chamber with a flashlight.

On any gun, the two critical components are the action and the bore. If you can ensure that the action cycles and the bore is in good shape, you’re good to go (generally speaking). In a best-case scenario, you’ll have the chance to test fire the gun before committing for the long term.

How to Find a Good Deal
As I said earlier, purchasing a used gun is a lot like purchasing a used car—the more homework you do beforehand, the less likely you are to get ripped off. Like cars, most used guns have an “official value” determined by the folks over at Blue Book of Gun Values.

But to find out what people are actually paying for a firearm, I recommend two online gun auction websites: GunBroker.com and GunsAmerica.com. Both websites allow you to search for the make and model of virtually any firearm, and access thousands of sellers nationwide selling the exact gun that interests you.

The price of a specific make and model can vary drastically depending on the configuration (stock, barrel, trigger, etc.) and the firearm’s condition. If you can’t find your exact configuration, find the price of a new model and subtract 20-40%.

Read the whole article at The Meat Eater
Source: Jordan Sillars/The Meat Eater